Winter Trails and Ice Walls in Cody, WY

Ice Climbing near Yellowstone

Cody, Wyoming, sits about 60 miles—or roughly an hour’s drive—east of Yellowstone National Park’s East Entrance. Alongside outstanding snowshoeing, the region offers ample opportunities for cross-country skiing, ice climbing, and more. In fact, the South Fork Valley (SFV), nestled between Cody and Yellowstone, is a hub for North American ice climbing. Each January, the Wyoming Ice Festival highlights this epic region, home to as much—or more—climbable ice than anywhere else in the contiguous United States.

Most climbing routes are found within Shoshone National Forest (SNF), the first national forest designated in the U.S. (1891), located on the east side of Yellowstone. Spanning about 2.5 million acres, SNF has been inhabited by Indigenous peoples for over 10,000 years. Today, the Arapaho, Crow, Blackfeet, Comanche, Nez Perce, Northern Cheyenne, and Sioux peoples regard these lands as ancestral homelands, and share them with thousands of visitors each year intent on exploring the area.

During my visit to Cody, I explored the winter offerings over a few days. Day one was dedicated to ice climbing, though not in the SFV. Instead, our beginner group headed north toward Montana’s North Fork area. At an unnamed icefall, we tackled three routes under the guidance of world-class ice climber, and creator of the Wyoming Ice Festival, Aaron Mulkey, who first provided instruction on safety and technique to our group..

I managed to complete all three climbs—though by the end, my forearms were completely spent, a sure sign of my “beginner” technique. Standing on crampon points and swinging ice axes (aka “tools”) worked both my body and mind in a way I’d never experienced. It was a challenging yet rewarding adventure, and being roped up with professional belayers kept me secure. When a fourth route was set up, I happily stepped aside to watch, content to take in the buzzing winter sports scene around me.

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Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in Cody

The next day, I returned to familiar territory: cross-country skiing. Sliding along the North Fork of the Shoshone River at Pahaska Tepee —a mile from Yellowstone’s East Entrance—felt like coming home. The  Park County Nordic Ski Association (PCNSA)  trail network is well-mapped and user-friendly for skiing and snowshoeing. While I don’t consider myself a seasoned xc skier, each time I step into “the skinnies,” I find my rhythm. We meandered toward Sleeping Giant Ski Area, navigating gentle ascents and descents along the way. 

I’m always struck by the contrast of frozen and unfrozen waterways in winter. Rivers and creeks—whether flowing or iced over—become pathways. I imagine aquatic life moving beneath the surface while above, snow blankets the landscape. Tracks in the snow reveal wildlife at work: quenching thirst, hunting for food. It’s a scene of survival and delicate beauty. Cody, WY and its surrounding areas, provide a peaceful place to experience both.

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Check out Cody’s vibrant community center

Once you’ve tackled Cody’s ice climbs and snowshoe trails, it’s time to warm up and refuel. Founded in 1896 by Buffalo Bill, this rugged town pairs its wild winter sports scene with great coffee, local brews, and hearty eats. Here are a few top spots to check out.

• Coffee Shops: Cody has really good coffee. Check out these 3 places when you’re in town:
  
  • City Brew
    
  • The Station
    
  • Rawhide Coffee Co.
    
• Breweries & Bars:
  
  • Pat’s Brew House: The only woman-owned and operated brewery in Wyoming, featuring creative food and drink menus. I recommend the Harvest Bowl and the award-winning Sybil Stout. Pat’s also serves cocktails, wine, and non-alcoholic options.
    
  • Cody Craft Brewing: An up-and-coming brewery making waves with award-winning beers. Try Much Obliged (a standout hazy) or the Buffalo Bilsner. Food is available via Wyo Dough.
    
• Dining:
  
  • The Blanca Tatanka: A can’t-miss spot with a versatile menu and locally sourced Wagyu from Hawks Hill Ranch. Expect live music on select nights and rotating drink specials—like half-price wine bottles on Mondays. Don’t miss the bar’s driftwood bison head sculpture.

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